Last summer, Barbie and all things pink stole the spotlight, setting the stage for a comeback of a different kind — the resurgence of the pink-hued veggie, rhubarb. With its vibrant color, tangy flavor, and sweet aroma, rhubarb is reclaiming its place in the culinary world, especially in the quaint corners of West Yorkshire, England, known as ‘the Rhubarb Triangle.’
In this 9-square-mile area, farmers uphold a 200-year-old tradition of cultivating rhubarb in dark sheds illuminated only by flickering candlelight. This method, known as ‘forced rhubarb,’ coaxes the plant to grow faster and develop an extra-sweet taste as it reaches for nonexistent sunlight. It’s said that even a brief exposure to bright light can disrupt the process, hence the reliance on candlelit darkness. (Fun fact: The rapid growth of rhubarb can produce a sound akin to popping popcorn!)
While this age-old technique is both labor-intensive and mesmerizing, it was once on the brink of extinction. However, thanks to a resurgence of interest in locally grown produce, rhubarb-related tourism, and the newfound popularity of baking as a hobby, the vegetable is experiencing a long-awaited revival.
Janet Oldroyd Hulme, a grower in the region, reflects on the journey: ‘My father was a staunch advocate for preserving our rhubarb heritage. He believed that despite the challenges, people would rediscover the joy of eating rhubarb. I’m grateful he lived to see his vision come to fruition.’ As rhubarb enjoys its moment in the spotlight, it’s clear that the future is bright for this beloved pink veggie.”
